Who’s that on the shelf? An Elf! Free Ragdoll Pattern!

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Well, We are kissing July good bye and saying hello to August…

And if you crochet that can only mean one thing!

Getting started on Christmas Holiday crochet!

This is one of the times it is MORE than ok to get a head start. Fine handcrafted gifts take TIME! So with that, allow me to share my newest free rag doll pattern!

Elf! He can sit on your shelf too!

I try to make my ragdolls in the fewest pieces possible with the smallest amount of sewing as possible. I strive to help you IMPRESS WITHOUT THE STRESS! Ha ha!

The great thing is you can make it any gender, skin tone, and eye color you wish. I know that is important to a lot of children so I love that about hand crafted gifts <3 You can use him in the tradition of Elf on the Shelf too! We use ours to do silly things, motivate for good behavior, bring small treats, and give us tasks on how we can do nice things for others! My children love love our Elf!

This baby makes the SIXTH free ragdoll I have done! I have a piggy, elephant, penguin, dinosaur, and narwhal! So much cuteness! <3

You can find them here on the blog http://www.crochetverse.com under “free patterns”!

You can store in your library and <3 them on Raverly, too at http://www.ravelry.com/designers/stephanie-pokorny

Let’s get started!

YOU WILL NEED:

– worsted weight yarn in the following colors and appoximate amounts, swap any color you like to meet your preferences!

Red: about 100 yards

White, Peach, Medium Brown: less than 40 yards each

Blue and Black: 5 yards

– size G(4mm) crochet hook USED FOR ALL BUT EYES

– size B(2.25mm) crochet hook USED ONLY FOR EYES

– small amount stuffing of your choice

– needle for ends and sewing features, stitch marker, scissors

– smidge of actual makeup blush if wish to “pink” the cheeks a little

GAUGE:

Gauge is not critical BUT you MUST crochet very tightly. You do not want holes in your ragdolls or amigurumi. I tend to crochet very tightly so you MAY have to drop a hook size from mine to get nice tight stitches.

FINISHED SIZE:

About 9” wide mitten to mitten and about 15.5” tall hat tip to toes.

INSTRUCTIONS: (US TERMS)

Leg One:

With red, chain 7:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch across. (6)

Row 2-23: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st st and in each st across, cut yarn. (6)

Leg Two:

With red, chain 7:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch across. (6)

Row 2-23: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st sc and in each st across. (6)

Row 24: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st sc and in each st across, then chain 3 more, do NOT tie off. (6sc, 3ch)

Row 25: (Join Legs) Position the leg you are working on now to the right, leaving hook in the last ch worked as shown in the photo. Place the second leg to the left of the right one and sc across the 6 sts of row 23 on the top to attach the two legs as one.

Row 26 (Continue to work for body): ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 1st 6 sc, make 1 sc in each of the 3 chains in the middle, sc in the last 6 sc. (15)

Row 27-38: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (15)

Row 39: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sc, sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 7 sts, (sc dec over nxt 2 sts) twice. (11)

Row 40: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 7 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, cut yarn. (9)

Row 41: (Continue for head) *Position as shown in the photo below with the tail from the last st of row 40 to the left* Join the skin tone yarn of your choice to the 2nd st counting towards the center from the right edge, ch 1, sc in the same st and the nxt 6 sts. (7)

Row 42: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the nxt 5 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (9)

Row 43: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the nxt 7 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (11)

Row 44: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (11)

Row 45: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the nxt 9 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (13)

Row 46: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in the 1st st, sc in the nxt 11 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (15)

Row 47: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (15)

Row 48: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sc, sc in nxt 11 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (13)

Row 49: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sc, sc in nxt 9 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (11)

Row 50: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (11)

Row 51: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 7 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (9)

Row 52: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (9)

Row 53: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 5 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts. (7)

Row 54: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt 3 sts, sc dec over last 2 sts, cut yarn. (5)

 EARS: Repeat once for each side of the body.

First Ear:

Position the panel as shown in the photo, with the end tail from the last row of the head to the left. Join the skin tone yarn with a sl st around the side of the 6th row of the head counting up from the 1st row of skin tone you made (it is JUST below the widest point of the head).

Row 1: ch 1, sc around the same row end and next 2 row ends. (3)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, make a THREE sc decrease (same as a standard decrease, but you will pull up a loop from 3 sts as opposed to 2 before the final yarn over pull through), ch 1 more, then cut yarn. (1)

Second Ear: With the body positioned the same way as for the 1st ear, join the skin tone  yarn with a sl st in the end of row 8th row counting up from the body where you began the head. This is just ABOVE the widest point of the head.

Row 1-2: Repeat as for first ear.

Arms: (Make 2)

Leave long beginning tail to seam to body later, chain 3:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch. (2)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in each sc across. (4)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st 2 sts, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in last st. (5)

Row 4-17: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across, tie off red after row 17. (5)

Row 18: *Position as shown in the photo below, with the tail from the last st made on row 17 on the left*. Join the white yarn in the BACK LOOP ONLY of the 1st st on the right side of row 17 just made, ch 1, sc in the same BACK LOOP and in each BACK LOOP ONLY across. (5)

Row 19-20: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5)

Row 21: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in nxt st, sc dec over last 2 sts. (3)

Row 22: ch 1, turn sc in each st across. (3)

Row 23: ch 1, turn, sc dec over 1st 2 sts, sc in last st, tie off. (2)

Using the long beginning tail you left, stitch one arm to either side of the body. Be sure the side with the ridge created at the wrist where you joined the white is facing up so it looks like his gloves are under his sleeve. I stitched 6 rows of the arm to the body and used the tail to pull the top of the shoulder into the body to give it a rounded seamless look as if the arms were actually emerging from the body.

JOIN BODY PANELS:

*Position as shown in the photo below, laying the two panels atop each other matching. Be sure the ridge at the wrist for the gloves is facing out on both pieces.*

Join the red yarn in the spot shown with an “X” with a sl st working through BOTH PANELS. (Your hook will first go through the stitch on the top, THEN through the coordinating stitch on the bottom panel), ch 1:

Using your hook, gently add some stuff into the limbs, head, and body as you complete this join round.

No ends to weave?!  On these dolls, I knot my tails a few times around, and tuck them inside the body as I work. It is a lot of “knotty, tucky, stuffy” activity, but I prefer it for the ragdolls!

Row 1: Working through both panels throughout, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in each corner to round them out (shown on photo with a “3”). When you reach the stitch just PRIOR to the gloves, perform the final yarn over pull through with the white, then work around the glove.  (I worked 2 sc in each of the sc at the tip of the gloves, shown with  “2,2” in the image) Then, in the same manner, switch back to red to continue. Do the same for the head, switch to the skin tone at the final yarn over pull through of the stitch just prior to the 1st st of the head edging. Change colors around in the same manner. Sl st to the 1st st made.

Collar:

With white, chain 25:

Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, hdc in nxt ch, dc in nxt ch, sk nxt 2 chs and sl st in the nxt ch, *sl st in the nxt st, ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt ch, hdc in nxt ch, dc in nxt ch, sk nxt 2 chs and sl st in the nxt ch, repeat from * four times more, do not cut yarn. Continue to edge:

EDGE: ch 1, do not turn, working across the top edge in the loops of the beginning chain, make 3 sc in the 1st st, sc in the nxt 22 sts, make 3 sc in the last st, in each “point” of the collar work 3 sc up the 1st side, then 3 sc in the same st at the tip, then 3 sc down the next side, working 2 sc in the sl stitches between the points, sl st to the 1st sc made leaving a 24” long tail to seam to body.

Using the long end tail, position the collar around the neck with 2 of the points centered on the chest, one point will rest on each shoulder and the remaining 2 points will sit on the back. The seam should be on the back. I tacked the points into place on the body so they didn’t curl up. Once done, weave the tails back into the body or collar and trim.

Nose:

With skin tone, chain 4:

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, (yo, insert hook into nxt st, yo and pull up a loop, yo, insert hook into the same st, yo and pull up a loop again, yo once more, insert hook into the same st, yo and pull up a loop, then yo one final time and pull through all loops on the hook), ch 1, sc in the last ch, leave a long end tail to sew to face.

Hair:

With brown, chain 25, sl st to 1st ch made to form a ring:

Round 1: ch 1, hdc in same ch and each ch around, sl st to 1st hdc made. (25)

Round 2: ch 4, do not turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in nxt ch, dc in nxt ch, sk nxt st on round 1 and (sc, hdc) in the nxt st, sc in the nxt st, ch 6, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, hdc in the nxt ch, dc in the nxt ch, 3 dc in the nxt ch, sk nxt st on round 1 and sc in the nxt 3 sts, ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in nxt ch, dc in nxt ch, sk nxt st on round 1 and (sc, hdc) in the nxt st, dc in each rem st of the round, sl st to the 1st ch of the ch-4, cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew to head.

The hair slips over the top of the head in a ring, it does NOT cover the whole head. I didn’t want to create too much bulk and the hat will cover it anyway. Position so the points of round 2 face down and round 1 is nearer the top of the head. Slide it so the bulk sits behind the head so the hair will peek out from the rear of the hat too. The front side meets up with the top of the head. The two side points sit just in front of the ears and the middle point sits just to the left of center of the face. You can use a stitch to enhance the “left swoop” of the center hair point. Pin in place if needed then sew in place.

Check out that little bald head <3 lol!

Hat:

With red, make a magic circle:

Do not turn or join rounds unless specifically instructed use a marker to mark rounds so you do not lose count.

Round 1: Make 4 sc in the ring. (4)

Round 2: sc in each sc around. (4)

Round 3: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) twice. (6)

Round 4: (sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) twice. (8)

Round 5: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) four times. (12)

Round 6: (sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) four times. (16)

Round 7: sc in each sc around. (16)

Round 8: (sc in nxt 3 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) four times. (20)

Round 9: (sc in nxt 3 sts, 2 sc in nxt sc) five times. (25)

Round 10: (sc in nxt 4 sts, 2 sc in nxt sc) five imes. (30)

Round 11-13: sc in each sc around. (30)

Round 14: sc in each sc around, sl st to nxt sc, cut yarn. (30)

Round 15: with the right side facing out, join white with a sl st in the nxt st after the sl st ending round 14, ch 1, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made.

Round 16: ch 1, hdc in same st and in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc made, cut yarn leaving a long tail to sew the hat to the head. (30)

Using the long end tail, sew the hat to the head, shifting it towards the back as you did with the hair ring. Be sure you do not cover the tips of the hair ring as you attach. It should come down and sit right on top of each ear. Pin in place if needed before sewing. When done, weave the tails within the body and trim. I did NOT stuff the hat at all, but you may if you wish.

Eyes (Make 2):

All eye components are made using the B (2.25mm) crochet hook.

In addition, SPLIT the yarn plies (there are 4 in your worsted strand of yarn) and use ONLY two of them held together for the components. This will allow us to create an eye more scaled for the size of the head.

With black, make a magic circle:

Round 1: make 4 sc in the ring, sl st to 1st sc made, cut black yarn. (4)

Round 2: join blue in any sc around, ch 1, make 3 sc in the same st, make 3 sc in each of the nxt 2 sts, leave the last st unworked, cut blue.

Round 3: join white in the 1st blue sc made, ch 1, hdc in the same st and the nxt st, sc in the nxt 3 sc, sl st in the nxt st, cut white, leave long tail to stitch eye sparkle on.

Sew on eyes:

FIRST: I took all the tails except for the long white one from the last tie off, and threaded them on the needle and wove them straight inside the head. Then I took the white tail and used it to strategically sew the eye to the face, just aside the nose. You can go in and out of the head as needed, but take care to not pucker the head with tight pulls of the threads. When the eye is tacked in place, use that same tail to stitch the “sparkle” in the eye. Twice around the stitch should do it. Note the sparkle position in both eyes is in the same place, around the 7-8 o’clock position and on the black.

SECOND: Using 2 plys of black yarn, stitch an outline just on the left side of the eye along the blue and black. Use the same tail to create three small eyelashes in about the 2 o’clock position on each eye.

FINISHING:

Weave in any remaining ends if there are any. Using your finger or a q-tip gently and LIGHTLY (you can always add more if you decide) tap on a little pink blush for the cheeks.

Please post projects and questions to any of the social media sites below, and/or email me at info@crochetverse.com

Much Love and Yarn, Stephanie

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