FREE Crochet Leg Lamp Wine Bottle Decor from A Christmas Story! Fra-gee-lay!

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“FRA-GEE-LAY! That must be Italian!”

So, who hasn’t yelled those words after a marathon watching of “The Christmas Story” Movie?? Lord knows,  I have.

Seriously. One of the best movies of all time.

Wine. Seriously. One of the best drinks of all time.

SO….for my momma’s birthday gift, I decided to mix them up and here is what I have for you! An adorable embellishment for your wine bottles!

leglampcrochetfinal

Materials:

– Size F (3.75mm) crochet hook

– About 25 yards each of worsted weight yarn in Dark Gold, Light Gold, Peach, and Black

Shown in Sample:

Dark Gold: Red Heart Super Saver in Gold

Light Gold: Caron Simply Soft in Autumn Maize

Peach: Caron Simply Soft in Light Country Peach

Black: Caron Simply Soft in Black

Normally, I do not mix Caron Simply Soft and Red Heart Super Saver as I feel they are too different in thickness, but for this project I think it’s fine and poses no issue to the finished project.

Sized For:

This will fit most average wine bottles, and instructions are included to adjust if needed.

 

Instructions:

With Dark Gold, ch 16:

SUCCESS TIP* Do not work your slip stitches overly tight, they will be too difficult to work into the next row if you do.

Row 1: sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch across, at the last yarn over pull through of the final sl st; loop Light Gold over the hook pulling that through and dropping the Dark Gold to change colors. (15)

NOTE***To keep this project on the quick side, we will NOT cut the yarn at the color changes. Instead, you will leave it hanging off to the side until it is time to use that color again. When you pick the color back up using it as the final yarn over pull through, be sure to not pull too tightly to avoid puckering the work. Be sure to untangle the colors here and there so you don’t end up with too much hassle, it won’t be much! Less ends to weave. You’re welcome lol!

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in the BACK LOOP ONLY (the one closer to you on the work) of the 1st 3 sl st, hdc in the BACK LOOP of the nxt 3 sl st, dc in the back loop only of the nxt 4 sl st, tc in the back loop only of the last 5 sl st. (15)

Row 3: ch 3 (counts as 1st tc so do not work into the st at the base of the ch-3), turn, tc in the nxt 4 sts, dc in the nxt 4 sts, hdc in the nxt 3 sts, sc in the last 3 sts, at the final yarn over pull through of the last sc, drop the light gold and pick up the dark gold again. (15)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (15)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, sl st in each st across, at the final sl st, drop the dark gold and pick up the light gold as previous.

Rows 6-9: Repeat Rows 2-5

Rows 10-13: Repeat Rows 2-5

Rows 14-17: Repeat Rows 2-5

Rows 18-21: Repeat Rows 2-5

SUCCESS TIP: Before moving along, wrap the piece around the intended wine bottle. If your wine bottle is larger or shaped differently, simple do another repeat or two of ROWS 2-5, then proceed.

Rows 22-24: Repeat Rows 2-4, cut the light gold.

Row 25: (Described)

NOW: Look at both side of the piece, one side has more pronounced dark gold ridges, I prefer this to be the side that shows when on the bottle.

  1. Fold your piece so the side you prefer is facing out and the first and last row of dark gold match up.
  2. Drop the loop from our last stitch of the row from your hook and insert your hook into the matching bottom stitch on the opposite edge of the piece. Pick that dropped loop back up and pull it through the stitch your hook is inserted through to join the two sides.
  3. ch 1 and working through BOTH thicknesses, sl st across the row to close the shade into a circle, do not tie off yet.

 

EDGE THE TOP OPENING:

Rnd 1: (work with the outside/right side of the piece facing you) ch 1, sc around the top opening working around the ends of the rows, sl st to the 1st st made, cut dark gold.

SUCCESS TIP: Work so that you are encompassing the posts of the sts that are at the ends and I also worked around the strands that were carried at the color changes, it really helped make it look neat and clean. It took me 24 evenly space sc to work neatly around as a guide point.

 

EDGE THE BOTTOM OPENING:

Rnd 1: With the outside/right side of the piece facing you and the larger bottom opening further from you, join the dark gold with a sl st around the end of the row where you joined the shade into a circle (row 25), ch 1, sc evenly around working as you did for the top opening edge, sl st to the 1st sc made, cut dark gold.

SUCCESS TIP: It took me 42 sc to evenly work around. When working into the tc and ch-3 around the bottom edge DO NOT encompass them completely. Instead, insert your hook into the strand of the actual stitch only grabbing a side loop or two so that a large gap is not created as you edge!

 

ADD “FRINGE”

With the bottom larger opening further from you and the right side of the piece facing out, join black with a sl st in any BACK LOOP of any bottom edge st around:

Rnd 1: ch 10, *sl st in next st, ch 10, repeat from * around, sl st to the same st you sl st to at the beginning of this round and cut black.

SUCCESS TIP: If you happen to be using Red Heart Super Saver, you may want to make your fringe a ch-8 instead of a ch-10 so it is not overly bulky.

 

LEG:

With peach, leave about a 10” beginning tail and ch 11:

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch. (10) (Skipped ch does not count as a st)

Row 2-5: ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout the leg), turn, hdc in each st across. (10)

Row 6:  ch 1, turn, hdcdec over 1st 2 sts, hdcdec over nxt 2 sts, hdc in rem 6 sts. (8)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 6 sts, hdcdec over last 2 sts. (7)

Row 8-10: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (7)

Row 11: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 5 sts, hdcdec over last 2 sts. (6)

Row 12: ch 1, turn, hdcdec over the 1st 2 sts, hdc in last 4 sts. (5)

Row 13: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 3 sts, hdcdec over last 2 sts. (4)

Row 14: ch 1, turn, 3 hdc in 1st st, hdc in last 3 sts. (6)

Row 15-17: ch 1, turn, hdc in each st across. (6)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, (hdcdec over 2 sts) THREE times total, do not tie off. (3)

EDGE LEG:

Rnd 1: ch 1, turn, sc evenly around working 1 st in the end of each row and st across the top and bottom rows and 3 sc in each corner, sl st to 1st sc made, cut peach.

SUCCESS TIP: It took me 63 sc to evenly edge the piece. Make sure you turn so the right side of the edging round faces up and the leg curves the right way (calf bump to the right)

SHOE:

Position the piece, so the short edge (row 18 of the leg piece) faces away from you and the curve (calf) of the leg is to the RIGHT and the wrong side of the leg edge round is facing you, join the black yarn with a sl st in the right most st of the short edge in the corner:

Row 1: ch 1, sc in the nxt 6 sts. (6)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in the 1st 4 sts, scdec over last 2 sts. (5)

Row 3: ch 5, turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 3 chs, sc in the last 4 sts of the row, ch 5.

The following are partial rows and don’t work all the way across.

Row 4: Turn, sc in 2nd ch from hook and nxt 3 chs, sc in nxt 2 sts of the row, sl st in the nxt st.

Row 5: ch 1, turn, skip the 1st st because that ch-1 counts as the 1st sl st and sl st in the nxt st, hdc in nxt 3 sts, sl st in nxt 2 sts, cut black, leaving about a 12” tail.

To “firm” up the show without making it bulky, I use the end tail and whipstiched around the ends of the rows of the shoe, before weaving them in to trim flush.

 

STITCH ON STOCKINGS:

With about a 65” strand of black, begin by pulling the yarn through the stitch on the right of the leg, where the shoe and skin meet, leaving about 12” of tail hanging from the edge, knot it right there at the edge so it is firmly attached.

Now, stitch across the leg and wrap the yarn around the edge and to the back then insert the needle from back to front in the stitch of the edge round just a few rows up, stich around the edge stitch 2 times, then move across to the opposite side of the leg a few rows up and do the same. Repeat this all the way until about 3 rows short of the top of the leg, then repeat back down the leg criss crossing over the previous stitches to form a grid. You should end up back down on the opposite side from where you started where the shoe and skin meet. Trim the final tail to about 12” as well. Knot the end of each tail to prevent fraying and trim evenly.

You can liken the stitching to the way a shoe lace is criss crossed on a shoe to help you visualize how to stitch it.

 

Finishing:

Using the beginning tail from the leg at row 1, stitch the leg into position under the fringe so it looks like it is coming out of the lamp.

Weave in any remaining ends.

DRINK UP! (But responsibly of course!)

 

I would really love to see what you make! Show me on one of the social media sites linked below!

Much Love & Yarn,

Stephanie

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