THIS CROCHET AFGHAN WEIGHS OVER SIX POUNDS!
WHY IS THAT IMPORTANT?!?
Maybe you’ve heard of weighted blankets. It is an afghan/quilt/blanket that is purposefully created heavy (rule of thumb is 10% of the users body weight generally) and used to help a person, who may suffer with anxiety or other challenges, to become comforted and calmed by being covered in the heavy blanket. This can be considered a weighted blanket for someone up to 60 (plus a little) pounds; and though he is much larger, even my 6’1″ husband loves it! Wanna get super wild and weighty? Make TWO identical ones and crochet them together for a over 12 pounds blanket!
I can assure you my children, husband, and myself, find the heaviness of it to be EXTREMELY calming! Therefore, I’ve decided to call this a “Calming Blanket” No promises or guarantees, but I do hope if brings you joy as it has brought my family!
So, why is this simple C2C noteworthy?
- It is designed to use just one ball of each color.
- It only uses complete rows, no mid-row color changes.
- It uses as much of each ball as possible, while keeping full rows only. (except for 2 of the colors which I dipped into for other projects, lol!)
- Want to DOUBLE THE WEIGHT? Make two identical and crochet them together back to back. How amazing would that be!
Have you never done C2C? No worries, I’ve created a clear to the point video for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5vPIqWHdyo
- (1) ball each Bernat Blanket Brights yarn in Pixie Pink, Race Car Red, Carrot Orange, School Bus Yellow, and Go Go Green, Busy Blue, Royal Blue, and Pow Purple
- (1) ball each Bernat Blanket yarn in Pale Gray, and White
This is a total of 2200 yards of super bulky weight yarn. These are the jumbo balls at 220 yards each.
(For similar, but not exact results: Blanket yarn is a super bulky 6 yarn. You can hold 3 strands of worsted weight yarn such as Red Heart Super Saver together to sub making sure to triple the yardage of the Bernat Blanket requirements!)
- Size L (8.0mm) crochet hook
- tapestry needle for weaving ends, scissors, tape measure, 4 stitch markers
Finished Size: Approx 60″ x 60″
Gauge: Each block of C2C should be just under 1 1/2″ square. The 1st four rows will measure 4″ along the straight side edge.
If you’ve not done C2C, be sure to watch this video I have created. It is a concise yet thorough tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5vPIqWHdyo
Working C2C, here is the row count for the afghan. You will need to understand C2C as this is not a completely written chain for chain pattern. It is a SUPER easy process, watch the video and it will all make sense!
Rows 1-9: Work in yellow, at the end of row 9 cut yarn. All rows up until row 42 are worked with increasing in the C2C method, this is also shown in the video.
Rows 10-18: Join gray with a sl st in the chain space of the last yellow block worked to start. Work these rows in gray, at the end of row 18 cut yarn.
Row 19-23: Join pink with a sl st in the chain space of the last gray block worked to start. Work these rows in pink, at the end of row 23 cut yarn.
Rows 24-32: Join red with a sl st in the chain space of the last pink block worked to start. Work these rows in red, at the end of row 32 cut yarn.
Rows 33-39: Join orange with a sl st in the chain space of the last red block worked to start. Work these rows in orange, at the end of row 39 cut yarn.
Rows 40-43: Join yellow with a sl st in the chain space of the last orange block worked to start. Work these rows in yellow, row 43 is your LAST INCREASE ROW. You are at the mid-point of the afghan now. HALF WAY DONE!
Refer to the video if needed, all remaining rows are worked as a decrease row
Rows 44-50: Join green with a sl st in the chain space of the last yellow block worked to start. Work these rows in green, at the end of row 50 cut yarn.
Rows 51-57: Join light blue with a sl st in the chain space of the last green block worked to start. Work these rows in light blue, at the end of row 57 cut yarn.
Rows 58-63: Join dark blue with a sl st in the chain space of the last light blue block worked to start. Work these rows in dark blue, at the end of row 63 cut yarn.
Rows 64-85: Join purple with a sl st in the chain space of the last dark blue block worked to start. Work these rows in purple, at the end of row 85 cut yarn.
Join the white yarn in any corner of the piece around. There is no right side/wrong side of a c2c really, so choose which side you like to start.
As you work the edge, you will notice the edges, as the c2c blocks are made, have the end of a dc on one row and the actual tops of stitches on the nxt. You want to work 3 sc in the side of each block along the edges. For the blocks that are sides of the dc, you will want to grab a strand only of the stitch as opposed to completely encircling the stitch to edge. This keeps gaps from forming as you edge.
Round 1: ch 1, work 2 sc in the same corner space, work 3 sc in the side of each block evenly spaced down the afghan. Continue around in the same manner, working 3 sc in the side of each block and 3 sc in each corner space, until you are back at the 1st sc made, join with a sl st to the 1st sc made once completely around. Mark the 2nd sc of each 3sc corner as you work with a stitch marker.
Round 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), you should be in the center sc of the 1st 3sc corner made, work 2 hdc in this stitch to create the 1st part of the new corner of round 2, hdc in each stitch down the side until the marked 2nd sc of the nxt corner is reached, work 3 hdc in the marked corner st. Continue around in the same manner, working 1 hdc in each sr around and 3 hdc in each marked corner st, until you are back to the 1st corner worked, make one more hdc in the corner sp and sl st to the 1st hdc made. Mark the 2nd hdc of each 3 hdc corner made with a stitch marker again.
Round 3: ch 1 (does not count as a st), make 4 hdc in the same st as the ch-1, sl st in the next 2 sts, *4 hdc in the nxt st, sl st in the nxt 2 sts, repeat from * until you reach the 1st marked hdc in the nxt corner, work 4 hdc in the marked stitch. Repeat in the same manner around, repeating from * until you have worked around the afghan, sl st to the 1st hdc made on the 1st corner worked.
In essence for every 3 hdc made of the round two, you will have “sl st, 4 hdc, sl st” to create a slightly ruffled cloud edge.
Surface Crochet the Sun Rays:
Using the yellow yarn, surface crochet a ray of 9 sl st each from the tip of each yellow block on row 9. If you are unsure how to surface crochet, here is a Youtbe video (not my own) to show you. This is the video I used to teach myself and from a fave, Repeat Crafter Me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmXuTlnnzMQ
Weave in all ends, and enjoy!
Much Love and Yarn,
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