Are you like me? Always fretting which crochet hook will be next to disappear? Will the “H” run off next into the deepest recesses of the couch, requiring at least one loose couch spring to deeply scratch my hand to retrieve it. Will the “I” end up snuggly inside a skein of yarn, never to be seen again? Without fail, it always happens when you’re a few rows away from FINALLY completing that WIP or the baby shower is HOURS away?!
Story. Of. My. Life.
So, I created this colorful dessert inspired case to solve all your problems! Well, maybe not all, but at least the crochet hook ones, i.e. “the important ones”.
I present the JELLYROLL CROCHET HOOK CASE:
You can hook yourself a case to store your hooks inside once you’re done hooking it with your hooks, Yo.
It is fully customizable to any number of small or large hooks and colors. I’ve color coded my example to house the entire set of Clover Amour hooks (The BEST, can I get an Amen?), from the tiny steel, all the way up to the big mama, the Q.
Best part is, there is NO SEAMING of pockets, nothing against sewing, but when I hook, I’m looking for the smallest amount of finishing work involved. I want it steaming off the hook and directly in use, no in betweens! The join-as-you-go technique I’ve implemented allows just that.
I’ve used worsted weight yarn for my example, as I’ve been at it a long time, and have acquired quite a stash, but I’ve given an alternative to make it up in embroidery floss held double stranded, so you can get the case you want for a minimal cost investment!
WITHOUT FURTHER ADO…..THE PATTERN:
Materials:
*Worsted weight yarn in the following amounts and colors:
20 yards for each small slot desired
25 yards for each large slot desired
60 yards for edging
You may sub embroidery floss held double stranded, if so, you will need:
(4) skeins for each small slot desired
(6) skeins for each large slot desired
(10) skeins for edging
I’d recommend against MIXING the yarn and the DMC, either commit to one or the other in full for the whole case. They have a different sheen and do work up slightly different, so I feel this is the best thing to do.
Shown in project is Caron Simply Soft in the following colors and order to match the full set of Clover crochet hooks from smallest steel to largest Q size, which has 24 hooks total.
Soft pink, soft blue, soft green, orchid, lt. country peach, lemon meringue, pistachio, chartreuse, lemonade, orange, red, watermelon, grape, berry blue, cobalt blue, kelly green, dark chocolate, neon green, neon yellow, neon pink, neon orange, iris, cool green, blue mint
When choosing colors, I recommend you just take the hooks with you and hold them up to each color for best matches!
*Size E (3.5mm) crochet hook
*Tapestry needle to weave in ends
*Button or bobble for closure
Finished Dimensions and Gauge:
After blocking, the case measures 11” tall x 25” wide.
Each small slot is 1” wide and each large slot is 1 ¼” wide.
For gauge complete one small slot and be sure it is about 1” wide and 11” tall.
Design Notes:
There is no seaming of pockets afterwards and is a join as you go case! It is fully customizable to your personal hook collection, I’ve used the small slot for all the thread hooks (1st 7 colors) and all the standard hooks (next 10 colors) that Clover offers, I’ve used the large slot for the big hooks (last 7 colors). The pockets fit snug, for me there is nothing worse than picking up your case and having the hooks all fall out.
You’ll want to take a moment and line up your hooks and color choices and write it down so you don’t accidentally mess up your sequence.
Due to seamless construction and bulk of the pocket, the project will bow out at the bottom, fear not, this will need some aggressive blocking and that will rectify that.
Blocking:
As stated above, this item should be aggressively blocked so it lays flat and rectangular. Once the item is totally complete and the tails are woven in:
- Heavily dampen the case, squeeze excess water out, do not wring or twist.
- Stretch, pull, and otherwise coerce the case into a nice flat even rectangle.
- Using non rusting pins, pin it in place on a blocking board, foam mat, mattress, folded up towels, basically anything to keep it flat that you can pin into.
- Let it dry undisturbed until completely dry.
Instructions:
Small Slot: (You must begin with at least one small slot, after that the order does not matter)
Ch 51:
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across. (50 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across. (50 sc)
Rows 3-4: rep row 2
Row 5: ch 1, turn, scflo (single crochet front loop only) in 1st 20 sc. (20 scflo)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 20 sts. (20 sc)
Row 7-9: repeat row 6.
Row 10: (see image at row end) making sure you are folding so the remaining free loop left from Row 5 is on the OUTSIDE, fold the smaller pocket end so row 9 rests back next to the beginning chain (forming a pocket), insert hook into the 20th from the bottom remaining loop from the beginning, pull the working yarn through both layers thereby slip stitching them together, ch 1, sc in the 1st 19 stitches down catching both the remaining beginning chain loop and the sc on row 9 to close pocket, make 3 sc in the last st to round the corner.
Working across bottom, through both thicknesses, evenly space 3 more sc across the bottom to complete pocket, tie off color.
Row 11: join next color w/ sl st in the bottom (closed pocket end with pocket side facing) remaining loop of row 5, ch 1, sc in same remaining loop and each remaining loop across. (50 sc)
Row 12: ch 1, turn, scflo in each st across.
Row 13: ch 1, sc in each st across. (50 sc)
Row 14: repeat row 13.
Row 15: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st 20 scflo. (20 scflo)
Row 16: ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 20 sts.
Row 17-19: repeat row 16.
Row 20: fold row 19 back to the line up next to the remaining loops on row 12. Sl st into the 20th loop from the bottom, working through both thicknesses (the rem loop and the sc on row 19), ch 1, and sc in each sc back down 20.
Working through both thicknesses across bottom, make 2 more sc in the 20th st and evenly space 5 more sc across bottom to close pocket, tie off.
*Repeat Rows 11-20 for each small slot desired.
Large Slot
Row 1: join next color w/ sl st in the bottom (closed pocket end with pocket side facing) remaining loop of row 5, ch 1, sc in same remaining loop and each remaining loop across. (50 sc)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, scflo in each st across.
Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st across. (50 sc)
Row 4-6: repeat row 3.
Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in 1st 20 scflo. (20 scflo)
Row 8: ch 1, turn, sc in each of the 20 sts.
Row 9-11: repeat row 16.
Row 12: fold row 12 back to the line up next to the remaining loops on row 2. Sl st into the 20th loop from the bottom, working through both thicknesses (the rem loop and the sc on row 19), ch 1, and sc in each sc back down 20.
Working through both thicknesses across bottom, make 2 more sc in the 20th st and evenly space 5 more sc across bottom to close pocket, tie off.
Edging:
With pocket side facing, join your edge color with a sl st in any st on the last row made, ch 1, sc in same sc, work as follows:
Round 1: Make 1 sc in each sc and remaining loop of beginning chains on short sides, evenly space 5 sc in the bottom of each small slot, evenly space 6 sc in the bottom of each large slot, evenly space 5 sc around the post at the row ends of each small pocket across the top, evenly space 6 sc around the posts at the row ends of each large pocket across the top, and 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to 1st sc made.
Round 2: Chain 1, turn, sc in each sc around, 3 sc in each corner, sl st to 1st sc made, tie off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends and block aggressively as instructed above.
Closure:
I’ve saved this for last so that the bulk of any closure would not affect the blocking process.
- In the center stitch of the edging row on the side of the 1st pocket you made, join edging color yarn held double stranded, with a sl st, chain the amount needed so that it will fit over your button or bobble choice snug but comfortable, sl st back into the same ch, tie off.
- Insert all your hook so that you may gauge placement. Roll the case up as desired, and stitch the button or bobble in the place that allows your loop to slide over it to close case.
- Weave in the ends from the loop creation.
ENJOY!
Crochetverse©2015 – No part of this pattern may be reproduced in part on in whole by any means, electronically, verbally, or written. You may sell any items you complete, that you create, no transferred creation or bulk productions, please respect the work that goes into pattern writing so that we may all remain creative!
This is exactly what I need, thank you. Is your Caron Super Soft just Super Soft or Super Soft Light? I am trying to convert it to UK yarn, 3.5mm hook seems small for worsted but then it probably needs to be firm, I guess I need to try one slot and see!
Hi! I used the regular worsted caron simply soft! 🙂
Row 11’s instructions are thoroughly confusing me. Where am I joining the next color?
Hi! Thanks for asking! Let me try to help you! If you note on row 5 of the pocket, you are only working in the FRONT LOOP of the stitch, this means the BACK LOOP remains unworked and is left open. After you fold ros 6 through 9 over and attach them with 10, row 5 will be at the EDGE of the pocket to the right. The remaining unworked BACK LOOPS on row 5 that are now at the edge of the work will be worked into for the subsequent pockets 🙂 I hope this helps and if you still need help, please don’t hesitate to ask! It feels conufsing, but once you get the idea, the other pockets will just fly! Also to note, this needs to be blocked pretty hard as the pockets tighten up the work even though the stitch count is the same. Don’t be afraid to really wet and pin this baby out to shape and dry!
Hi, for row 11, do you work the back loop only for the entire row, or just the first 20 stitches (and then work both loops for the remaining 30 stitches)?
Hi! I worked the back loop only for the entire row, it gave a nice little ridge textural detail I liked! Thanks for asking, and if you have any other questions, please let me know!
Thanks! 🙂
Thank you for this awesome pattern! I’ll try it, no doubt, since I already have most of the Clover hooks, and I intend to purchase the others. And you’re right, they’re extraordinary, so here is your “Amen” 🙂
You’re so welcome! Amen! My other hooks are mere decorative items now haha Can’t wait to see your case when you get to it!
Love this….I hope I won’t need a picture tutorial to get this made 🙂
If at any point you need a little further description, just let me know! I usually notice the messages on Facebook a bit faster, so join the Crochetverse page too! Thanks!
Hi. For the large slot pattern, should the rows labelled “7-11” be rows 9-11, or rows 9-13?
Yes, thank you so much for letting me know! I’ve corrected the count, the pattern is correct as written, it was only misnumbered in the case anyone has started and is wondering if the info was correct. Thanks again for taking the time to tell me!
where did you get all the yarn please
Hello, The yarn used in the example is all Caron Simply Soft yarn. I’ve listed the official color names for you in the materials section of the pattern. This yarn is one that you can find at most stores, like Walmart, Joann Fabrics, and Michaels. Also, if you need to order online, you can order right from their page at http://www.yarnspirations.com. Unfortunately, I do believe some of the colors are now discontinued, but I’m unsure, as different places carry different colors. You may mix yarn brands, but I think you’ll notice that Caron Simply Soft is on the thinner side of worsted weight yarn, so you keep that in mind when choosing additional yarns to mix in. One good one is Hobby Lobby Yarn Bee, it has a similar sheen and weight. I hope this helps, thank you!
Oh, in addition, you can make the entire case with DMC Embroidery floss. It will have a bit of a different look as the floss is a bit thinner, but there is a wide range of colors without having to invest in a full skein of yarn for each slot. I recommend if you go that route, you take your hooks to the store with you to best match colors, thank you again!
[…] got 4 compartment so far but what I love about this pattern is that you can add as many as your like/need (in my case I’ll have to hook a lot […]
I agree, Thank you!!
Do you plan on doing a video tutorial for this project?
Hi! I had not, but are you having issues with any part? I’d be happy to help you!
i am a lefty how do i start pocket 2 onward? help would be appreciated
Hi! I would say you will be working your case from the right side to the left side then and will *likely* just do exactly as written, but on the LEFT side of your first pocket as opposed to your right! Hope that helps!
[…] Crochet Hook Case from Crochetverse This is amazing!! It is even color coded for the Clover Amour hooks, which I love. […]
For using embroidery floss, do you still use a 3.5mm hook? It seems to be very very holey with only 2 strands as stated and the 3.5mm hook. Maybe I’m doing something wrong, I’m not sure! TIA for any help!
The embroidery floss will definitely have a bit more openness to it. Can I ask what you mean by 2 strands? You should use the embroidery floss as it comes off the small hank, with no separating, just to clarify. I tend to be a very tight crocheter, so if you are on the looser side, you can definitely drop down a hook size (some people have to drop even two sizes) to tighten that up some. Hope that helps!
I have all my crochet hooks as well as the hooks my mother used, so we are talking close to 100, I have them bundled according to size and stored in a special box. This is perfect!! Just slip one of each size in, store it with the others. I just will not have to spend so much time going “is this the size I need?” Thank you so much!!!!
I made this a while back and I STILL use it and use it every day!! I am so glad you like it and that you have her hooks too! <3
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